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Saturday, March 14, 2009

Kenyan Beads: Handmade, Detailed and Beautiful

By Deanna Collins

At the foot of the Ngon'g Hills found on the outskirts of Nairobi in Kenya there lays a farm. This farm has become remembered by many as a result of Karen Blixen's 'Out of Africa'. Both book and film's title are translated from the Latin saying which translates to "there is always something new out of Africa.' It just so happens this saying has once again become truth, when almost thirty years ago this truth bestowed upon us the birth of Kazuri Beads.

The colorful ceramic beads made at Kazuri on the old Blixen estate are now famous world-wide and are featured in the Gratitude Collection. The Gratitude Collection's Signature "g" Bead is made exclusively for the collection by workers at Kazuri.

In the 1970s an African-born Englishwoman by the name of Lady Susan Wood, as well as her physician husband made a commitment to the Kenyan people and their welfare. Lady Wood was founder of a small project to empower women, who had no other means of support. That one small project evolved into Kazuri Beads, which was a Fair Trade project for the empowerment of the local people.

Meaning 'small and beautiful' in Swahili, the project that began with two disadvantaged women working in a garden shed now provides employment for several hundred needy people, especially women. It has created a source of income for many women who would otherwise have had few options to provide for themselves and their families, including many women with disabilities, single mothers and women widowed by the Aids epidemic that has swept through Africa.

Kazuri Beads are made from clay sourced from the foothills of the mountains of the Kenyan Highlands, providing an income for small farmers in the area. The clay is processed in the Kazuri plant to remove impurities. Feldspar and quartz are added and the raw material is further treated to create a high quality clay.

Once this initial process is complete, the clay is then hand made into ceramic beads which bake in the sun prior to being fired at about 1100 degrees Celsius in electric kilns. Each bead is individually hand-painted and glazed before the 2nd baking period. With the meticulous quality control, quality clay and the skilled painting of each bead ensures the beads are flawless. Entire batches have been lost due to power cuts disrupting the entire process.

There is a staggering variety of designs and styles when it comes to Kazuri beads. From discs and tubes to shell shapes, they can be of bright and vibrant colors, or earthy and warm tones. Even though this is African jewelry, its styles and patterns not only resemble traditional designs but are also found to carry an ethnic, contemporary folk art flavor. Due to each bead being painted by hand in a very meticulous manner, you will find each artist's particular stamp of style in the work they do. Acacia; Benin Splash; Kalahari and Sahara Sand are the names of different styles of beads grasping their own African origin.

The women who work at Kazuri Beads do more than just make and paint the beads. The finished beads are made up into many styles of necklace, bracelet and earrings that are exported around the world. Beads are applied to sandals, purses and other items and the project has also ventured into making other ceramic items.

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